Wine: Expo rediscovers twentieth-century writers Riccardo Cotarella heralds literary talents Veronelli, Soldati and Monelli

18/06/2015 Wine that is recounted, studied, and savoured through the writings of three top authors: Luigi Veronelli, Mario Soldati and Paolo Monelli

Last Saturday during the second convention of the Comitato Scientifico (scientific committee) of “Vino – A Taste of Italy” at the Wine Pavilion at Expo, the evolution of wine was discussed once again with a historical literary twist throughout the twentieth century presenting traditions, food and wine that remained intact during the transformation of Italy from peasant country to the new industrial society.

“The literary journey is a sign: one of seeing new talents come forth able to recount wine as it was with the uniqueness of its time, Monelli, Soldati, and Veronelli,” said Riccardo Cotarella, president of the Comitato Scientifico.

“In Italian literature of the twentieth century, wine often played an important role,” emphasized Luca Clerici, professor of literature at the University of Milan. “In the field of food and wine reporting, we can instead identify Paolo Monelli’s wandering glutton, the main ancestor of its kind. In the writings, all the authenticity of landscapes and social conditions can be found. The author, gourmand journalist, and great drinker goes on an unforgettable tour down the Boot in the company of Novello, a teetotalling and moderate painter and cartoonist, on pages of remarkable splendour.”

For Alberto Capatti, cooking historian and co-curator of the Triennale di Milano “Camminare la Terra” exhibition on Luigi Veronelli, “the great journalist and writer from Milan has taught us, in over twenty years, to create a union, difficult but almost perfect, between two great virtues of our Country: wine and food, through works such as ‘Mangiare bene all’italiana’ and ‘Il Vino giusto’.”

“Veronelli’s initiatives, liberatory anarchist, shaped by his rigour and disobedience, were able to anticipate the reflection on creating territories, vineyard and cellar skills, laying claim to the sovereign dignity of winemakers and acknowledgement for the fruit of their labour,” observed Giuseppe Lo Russo, journalist and gastronome.

“Eat well and drink well, the rediscovery of the best products in our tradition since then have become a continual commitment to taste and intelligence, which involves the culture across the board,” commented Andrea Gabbrielli, food and wine journalist. “In the 50s and 60s, it is right to remember even other masters and pioneers of a style who put themselves to the test with wine and food, not in an ordinary way, to the knowledge and valorization of these themes, such as Piero Accolti, Felice Cùnsolo, Livio Jannattoni, Rossano Zezzos, Luigi Volpicelli and Renato Ratti.”

“If they were here today, what would they drink?” that is the question from journalist Andrea Del Cero who brought the attention to Veronelli, Soldati, and Monelli. “Every single answer would have a different flavour because each of these authors have approached these themes not only with varying styles, but also for different reasons. Mario Soldati, for example, was able to lead us down the banks of the Po in the 50s on the quest for the customs and traditions of a world that was perhaps destined to disappear.” (Source: ANSA)




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